I leave mine on most of the time too, but I'd turn it off more often if the R5 switch was in the same position as on the R6iiYou are used to the power switch on the left. I am used to mine left on.
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I leave mine on most of the time too, but I'd turn it off more often if the R5 switch was in the same position as on the R6iiYou are used to the power switch on the left. I am used to mine left on.
Maybe. I'm pretty sure I could learn the new position in 5 seconds, despite not being particularly good at adapting to new layouts. The only problems that would arise would be if I switched back and forth between my R5 and a R6ii, never being quite sure which camera I was using at the time! When the "R5ii" and/or "R5s" are launched, the power switch will probably be revised again!I think the point was 20 seconds to learn the new position of the power switch. Not 20 (or 5) seconds each and every time you pick up the new camera (which won’t remain ‘new’ for long).
In the Viltrox case they said in that message to the customer that they weren’t the only company to have been stopped from making RF glass.
100% - Knowing what I know about patent law and how vigorous Canon is about protecting their patents the speculation is not a major leap. What I have taken exception with is statements like "Canon is blocking all 3rd party on the RF mount" when there is simply no proof this is true.The point is that screenshots of something posted by a customer service rep aren’t exactly definitive evidence. The published statement mane by Canon Germany is actual evidence, and mentions only Viltrox.
People can read what they want into it, but anything other than likely infringement by Viltrox is just speculation.
My R7 switch is on the right and my R5 on the left so I have to be mentally ambidextrous.I leave mine on most of the time too, but I'd turn it off more often if the R5 switch was in the same position as on the R6ii
My brain isn't that lively!My R7 switch is on the right and my R5 on the left so I have to be mentally ambidextrous.
Is the Cinema RF mount glass from Fujinon autofocus or purely manual?Canon has clearly not taken any action on the RF mount itself as there are over 70 RF manual focus lenses in the Cinema space and some from some big players in Cinema glass like Fujinon that would not risk a battle with Canon.
How would adding the extra pins to the RF mount "prevent" reverse engineering? It would make it more difficult, but if Sigma/Tamron could figure out what Canon is using them for (and how), they would be able to add extra pins to their own potential RF lenses, and get full functionality, wouldn't they?I really do not know if all hope is lost for 3rd party RF autofocus lenses but my technical speculation "gut feel" worries that for those that want 3rd party glass Canon may have added the additional pins to the RF mount to prevent reverse engineering. Time will tell.
For me I am happy as I can be with my RF system and truly want for nothing. (Ok an RF 11-15\24 F4 would be welcome)
My R7 switch is on the right and my R5 on the left so I have to be mentally ambidextrous.
To be honest, before this was being discussed here, I hadn't spent a single thought on the placement of the switch.R6 on the left , R7 on the right, M5 on the left, M6II on the right, 6D on the left , 550d on the right, 1DXII on the back, and A1 on the right. At any point in time I was likely using 2-3 different bodies. I don't think I ever really thought twice about it. After I do it a couple of times, it becomes muscle memory. I never felt like I missed a shot because of the on/off switch. If it wasn't already on, I really wasn't ready to shoot.
Back in the film days with the A1, it was far more frustrating to find I had not advanced the film to reset the shutter, diaphragm, and mirror for the next exposure. Even back then, the A1 on/off (A/L) switch was never really an issue.
Some folk, like yourself, have the ability to switch back and forth between cameras without encountering muscle-memory problems, others (possibly less mentally agile) sometimes curse the way controls are moved from place to place on successive models. I and others have admittedly been exaggerating the "problem", but it really would be so very nice if Canon standardised more on the controls of cameras within their range.R6 on the left , R7 on the right, M5 on the left, M6II on the right, 6D on the left , 550d on the right, 1DXII on the back, and A1 on the right. At any point in time I was likely using 2-3 different bodies. I don't think I ever really thought twice about it. After I do it a couple of times, it becomes muscle memory. I never felt like I missed a shot because of the on/off switch. If it wasn't already on, I really wasn't ready to shoot.
Back in the film days with the A1, it was far more frustrating to find I had not advanced the film to reset the shutter, diaphragm, and mirror for the next exposure. Even back then, the A1 on/off (A/L) switch was never really an issue.
All the normal mechanical actions using turning employ a right hand clockwise action for turning things on, screwing screws in, tightening nuts, putting on bottle caps etc. Even cranking a car on the old days was clockwise. And our DNA has a right hand twist. So Nikon does the opposite for its lens mounting.To be honest, before this was being discussed here, I hadn't spent a single thought on the placement of the switch.
My EOS R and 5 D IV have it on the left, my M 240 has it on the right, I haden't even thought it could be an issue. What I dislike is the mode button, which the R 6 doesn't have.
The difference in focusing direction between Leica R - M and Nikon was utterly irritating for a long long time. I missed many shots.
Fortunately Canon's lenses have it "right" (for me).
Has Nikon ever explained why they chose the "wrong" way ?All the normal mechanical actions using turning employ a right hand clockwise action for turning things on, screwing screws in, tightening nuts, putting on bottle caps etc. Even cranking a car on the old days was clockwise. And our DNA has a right hand twist. So Nikon does the opposite for its lens mounting.
Part of Nikon's plan to drive themselves out of the market. They really do make superb cameras and lenses and then implement stupid things to detract. The D850 is simply the best DSLR for AF and IQ, but it's difficult to use some of the buttons, it doesn't have a mode dial with C1-C3 settings like Canon for quick switching between saved settings, and saved settings are not "sticky" and do not revert when you alter them for a single shot.Has Nikon ever explained why they chose the "wrong" way ?
It can be a logical choice on some car screws and bolts for safety reasons (king pin), but on lenses?
Water droplets. Hummingbirds. And more...Out of curiosity , what would you shoot at 1/16000?
But for me... it makes 0 sense to have it with that HEAVY rolling shutter... zero rolling shutter is hard needed for this!R7 has pre-buffer. M6II had it (in a cropped mode) 3 years ago.
I agree. The D 850 was may favourite, but, as you just wrote, some "details" were irritating, Plus the absence of a 100-400 and TS 24mm as good as the Canons. So, after some happy years with an F2, I jumped ship !!! and bought an EOS D III. The easier adaptability of Leica R lenses also spoke for Canon. Yet, I still hope Nikon will become a real competitor again.Part of Nikon's plan to drive themselves out of the market. They really do make superb cameras and lenses and then implement stupid things to detract. The D850 is simply the best DSLR for AF and IQ, but it's difficult to use some of the buttons, it doesn't have a mode dial with C1-C3 settings like Canon for quick switching between saved settings, and saved settings are not "sticky" and do not revert when you alter them for a single shot.
It doesn't make "0 sense". It makes a good deal of sense to have a pre-buffer mode that can work for some of the time than not to have it at all. I have examples here where rolling shutter spoiled shots but others where it didn't. https://www.canonrumors.com/forum/threads/r7-discussion.41564/But for me... it makes 0 sense to have it with that HEAVY rolling shutter... zero rolling shutter is hard needed for this!