Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II

neuroanatomist

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Jul 21, 2010
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Seeing as there isn't yet a thread for this amazing lens, I thought I'd start one off with a few pics:


EOS 5D Mark II, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 1/2 s, f/8, ISO 100, +12 shift


EOS 5D Mark II, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 1/20 s, f/18, ISO 100, +12 shift


EOS 5D Mark II, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 6 s, f/8, ISO 100, +6 shift
 
c-law said:
Question: does the amount of tild or shift applied get recorded in the metadata or do you have to remember?

No, it does not get recorded in the metadata - tilt, shift, and rotation are purely mechanical and the settings are not transmitted to the camera. You have to remember, or write it down. The only -E (= electronic) part of the lens is the aperture control. As a side note there, even that can be 'broken' when you use a TS-E lens with an extender - they are compatible (although the TS-E manual indicates that extenders cannot be used), but the aperture data are improperly recorded in the EXIF header.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
ronderick said:
Neuro, have you tried using polarizing filter with the TS-E 24mm II?

Yep. I have an 82mm B+W Käsemann CPL (Slim mount, becuase I also use it on the 16-35mm II) that does very well on the TS-E 24mm II.

Thanks! I was a bit afraid there's going to be obvious vignetting with the 82mm filter.

This is one of those time where I wish there's special filter holders designed for the 17mm (something along the line of Lee's filter holder for the Nikkor 14-24). Having the option of using a filter really makes a difference...
 
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ronderick said:
Thanks! I was a bit afraid there's going to be obvious vignetting with the 82mm filter.

Not much risk of that - the image circle of the new TS-E lenses (17mm and 24mm II) is huge! The only reason the hood fot the 24mm II is so short is that when you apply a lot of shift, you get vignetting (but then, you get vignetting on the side of the shift even with no filter or hood mounted). At shifts up to ±8, there's no vignetting and no effect of adding a filter - even the CPL stacked on top of the MRC UV (F-Pro mount) is fine. Above ±8, you start to see some shading - but removing the filters doesn't help significantly, so it seems to be an optical 'feature' of the lens.
 
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One of mine
5636588526_c7aee7cc95_b.jpg
 
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Neuro, very good shots, your ones in Beijing!
Let me say, by the way, that you don't need T&S to get parallel lines in the digital era! ;)
To stay in Beijing, let me show you a Steven Holl architecture in Beijing. EF16-35L II at 35mm, PP LR 3.6. The point of shooting was extremely close, since the street was very narrow...
 

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aldvan said:
Neuro, very good shots, your ones in Beijing!
Let me say, by the way, that you don't need T&S to get parallel lines in the digital era! ;)
To stay in Beijing, let me show you a Steven Holl architecture in Beijing. EF16-35L II at 35mm, PP LR 3.6. The point of shooting was extremely close, since the street was very narrow...

What do you mean? Straighten the photo in post?

Then please show me a fullsize, non-cropped image with the same effect and same corner quality. and also, adjust DOF like you can with tiltshift, for example full DOF on a landscape image at f8. Also with rotated plane of focus. It's only possible with tiltshift.
 
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aldvan said:
Let me say, by the way, that you don't need T&S to get parallel lines in the digital era!

True. DxO can correct keystoning, too. But you need to know ahead of time that you're going to need that, and frame loosely to allow for the cropping space needed for the corrections. Plus, you'll have soft corners, not as bad as a de-fish, but definitely soft.
 
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