Have you preordered an RF 200-800mm?

Have you preordered a 200-800mm?

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I’m starting to enjoy birding and wildlife more and more, but this would likely stay unused till spring and only fits in my largest photo backpack. So I didn’t preorder one.

If I still want one next year and there isn’t a RF180 macro announcement and I don’t plan to get an R7II/R5II, then I’ll just plain (back)order one.

Having located a kingfisher 800m from my house this week, that I have spotted on 4 separate occasions already, does make the 200-800 slightly more attractive :)
 
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It’s an interesting lens, but given that I have the RF 109-400 as a long lens for travel, the 100-500L (with extenders) as a long lens for local use, and the 600/4 II (with extenders) for birds, I simply have no real need for the 200-800.

…only fits in my largest photo backpack.
It is a big lens, almost as long as the 100-300/2.8.

If anyone is looking for a toploader-type carry solution, I’d recommend the Think Tank DH-150, it would be a perfect fit.
 
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I’m starting to enjoy birding and wildlife more and more, but this would likely stay unused till spring and only fits in my largest photo backpack. So I didn’t preorder one.

If I still want one next year and there isn’t a RF180 macro announcement and I don’t plan to get an R7II/R5II, then I’ll just plain (back)order one.

Having located a kingfisher 800m from my house this week, that I have spotted on 4 separate occasions already, does make the 200-800 slightly more attractive :)
An 800m is the lens for you.
 
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It's high on my wish list but I didn't preorder; I have no need for it by any particular date, and I guess payment is only taken when they get stock and ship, which is too unpredictable for my taste. I'll see if any deals turn up next year, or any secondhand ones (I won't hold my breath).
 
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Do as I do and consider one of the extenders to pair with your 100-500.
(I didn't bite that bullet yet).
I have been / are considering that, but AlanF's review of what you get out of adding an extender (in terms of resolution) has made me reject it so far.

I find the f/7.1 rather dark (& slow) when indoors too, and neither an extender nor f/9 is going to help on that. The 100-300/2.8 would help, but I don't have/want to spend that kind of money for this purpose.
 
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My GAS for the 200-800 has died down a bit :) I managed to track down the local kingfisher again, at 2:50 in the afternoon and at f/7.1 I needed ISO5000 for 1/320s. I'm not sure how much extra practical resolution the extra 300mm would give me when the ISO goes up 2/3 of a stop.
 
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My GAS for the 200-800 has died down a bit :) I managed to track down the local kingfisher again, at 2:50 in the afternoon and at f/7.1 I needed ISO5000 for 1/320s. I'm not sure how much extra practical resolution the extra 300mm would give me when the ISO goes up 2/3 of a stop.
An 800/9 is 2/3 stop faster than a 500/7.1 when it comes to photons per duck - it has an 89mm front lens (entrance pupil) compared with 70mm. So, dial up 2/3 stop of iso with the f/9 to maintain the shutter speed and you'll actually get better signal to noise in your duck and 60% more resolution if the lens is just as sharp. A little bit of physics is actually useful when making choices!

f-number is what you use to get the right exposure in the exposure triangle. When it comes to diffraction, resolution, S/N and some other factors, all things being equal, it's the diameter of the entrance pupil/front element that is the crucial factor, the bigger the better.
 
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An 800/9 is 2/3 stop faster than a 500/7.1 when it comes to photons per duck - it has an 89mm front lens (entrance pupil) compared with 70mm. So, dial up 2/3 stop of iso with the f/9 to maintain the shutter speed and you'll actually get better signal to noise in your duck and 60% more resolution if the lens is just as sharp. A little bit of physics is actually useful when making choices!

f-number is what you use to get the right exposure in the exposure triangle. When it comes to diffraction, resolution, S/N and some other factors, all things being equal, it's the diameter of the entrance pupil/front element that is the crucial factor, the bigger the better.
I want a lens with a 200mm front element that only weighs 4 lbs. :ROFLMAO: . I am guessing that the thermal stability of acrylic lenses is such that they are not suitable at large sizes even though they seem to work well in phones and eye glasses.
 
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I want a lens with a 200mm front element that only weighs 4 lbs. :ROFLMAO: . I am guessing that the thermal stability of acrylic lenses is such that they are not suitable at large sizes even though they seem to work well in phones.
Bring back @HarryFilm!
 
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